Standing Seam Metal Roofing Installation - DIY Step by Step Guide! (2022)

Installing a standing seam metal roof is not as easy as it may seem at first. “Yeah”, you might think: “What is there to do? Just put up those panels!”.

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Not so quick, now! Standing seam installation process can actually involve a lot of tedious work, so let’s cover it in a step-by-step fashion to see some of the challenges it may entail. Shall we?

| 1. Basic Prep Work Required |
| 2. Necessary Tools, Materials, and Supplies |
| 3. Installation Process |

1. Basic Preparation for the Job

The most important thing about installing standing seam, is to measure the roof correctly and precisely. Here is why; Each standing seam panel is cut to the exact size, and if your panels are too short, you will run the following costly issues:

A) If a panel is only 2″ short, you may not be able to use your ridge cap as it will not cover the ends of the panels. In this case you will have to get or make a wider cap. In this case it will go from 12 to 16″ wide cap (remember – panels are 2” off on each side, so we add 4″ to the ridge cap)

B) If panels are short by 4-6″ you may not be able to get a cap that wide, so now you have only two options: Ether panels are useless, or you splice them. Splicing 6-inch metal panels, while sitting at the ridge of your roof is about as much fun as head-butting the curb! 😉 You would probably want to get at least 2-3 feet long panels for splicing. You will also need at least a foot of overlap on each panel.

In either case you will run into additional work and will likely have to spend a lot more money compared to what should have (and could have) been originally spent.

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A few words of advice before you get started:

Roofing, by its very nature, is a very dangerous work, and hence your safety should be your number one priority. We always recommend using a full body harnesses and a properly set-up fall protection system consisting of roof anchors, 50′ lifeline, and a shock-absorbing lanyard.

You can buy these in most Home Depot and Lowe’s stores, or any local roofing supply place, or online.

Using heavy duty steel screws or 3″ framing nails with a double head for easy removal, install your roof anchors over the ridge, so each “ear” of the anchor is located on different side of the roof.

The best way to install it, is to find roof rafters and put your nails into them. This will give you the best hold-down on the roof.

When attaching the lifeline rope, always make sure that the arrow on the lanyard’s self-tracking rope grab points up, toward the roof anchor. Otherwise, it will not hold you in case of a fall.

You should always have at least 3 anchors for an average size home. Each person on a roof should be tied off to his or her own anchor. You should not have more than one person tied to one anchor (unless it is the end of the job and all other anchors have already been removed.).

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(Video) How to Install a Standing Seam Metal Roof from Start to Finish

The very first thing you should do when you get up onto the roof, is to install the anchor. You should already be properly wearing a body harness and have a rope with you. Once the anchor is securely attached to the roof, snap on your rope, and now you can start measuring your roof.

Step 1 – Measuring the roof:

So, in order to get the right measurements, you will actually have to go up onto the roof and measure every Eave, Gable, Ridge, Valley and Side wall.

Once you get the exact to-the-inch measurements, add two inches to each panel for the drip edge, which sticks out by an inch and gets bent back by an inch.

Assuming your panels will be 16 inches wide, take the width of your home in feet, multiply it by 12 and divide the result by 16. This will give you the number of panels required for each side.

I like to order my panels at least one inch longer than my measurements, and also at least one extra panel for any screw-ups that for some reason always seem to happen! 😉 I recommend you do the same.

Step 2 – Prepare your roof:

Unlike steel and aluminum shingles, standing seam panels should not be installed over the existing asphalt shingles. There are two main reasons:

  • First, if you install a standing seam metal roof over asphalt shingles, there will be a so called “telegraphing effect” where shingles can punch horizontal lines in standing seam panels. — This in neither aesthetically pleasing nor good for the metal panels.

This gets us to the second reason not to install standing seam over shingles:

  • Since most contractors and homeowners are looking to spend as little as possible, they usually choose to install a Steel Standing Seam, which is usually made of Galvalume or G-90 galvanized steel.

Well, the truth is that steel can ultimately rust and corrode, especially if its coating wears off.

And if you put steel standing seam over asphalt shingles that are covered with stone granules, the expansion and contraction of the metal will rub the underside of the panels against stones on the shingles. — This will sooner or later cause the protective coating to wear off, thus inviting the rust spots to start popping up all over the roof.

To avoid the above-mentioned problems, you should tear-off all the old shingles and make sure there are no nails sticking out from the roof deck, before installing standing seam.

Once the tear-off is complete, repair and replace all rotten wood. You do not want to put a brand-new lifetime metal roof over an old, rotted deck.

Once the tear-off is complete, install a waterproofing underlayment, which will protect your roof in case it rains during the installation of your new roof and will be a second waterproofing barrier once the main roof goes on.

I recommend using GAF DeckArmor breathable synthetic underlayment, and strongly advise against Felt or tar paper, both for safety and performance reasons.

Mask sure you start installing the underlayment working your way from the bottom up. On lower slope roofs, we overlap the underlayment by at least a foot. On steeper roofs, all you really need is 6 inches of overlap.

Run the underlayment on all flat surfaces of your roof. If you have skylights or chimneys, run it to the base of the curb.

Spend some extra time wrapping the chimney as it is very likely to leak if you seal it the wrong way. Start at the bottom of the chimney with a piece of underlayment that is 4 feet wider than the chimney, so it will have a 2 feet flap on each side.

Run underlayment 6 inches up the wall on the chimney and nail the flap to the roof along the straight line of the fold.

Put only two nails for now, at each end of the fold line. Cut the corners sticking to the sides of the chimney at 45 degrees from the roof deck and wrap them around the chimney. Install your side flashing in the same manner and then the top flashing.

Run a bead of caulking (we use Solar Seal 900) between the chimney and top 1 inch of the underlayment flashing. This will make your chimney watertight, and even if it rains, the water won’t get through.

Here is what your chimney flashing should look like:

2. Necessary Tools, Materials, and Supplies

A roofing hatchet or a carpenter’s hammer. I prefer a hatchet, but in some cases you do need a claw-hammer of some type to pull out nails. You can also use a flat bar, but it’s not always convenient to have too many bulky things on the roof.

Utility knife. After trying out more than 50 different utility knifes, I came to a conclusion to use the single-use knifes with blades that are long and you just brake off a dull piece of the blade and the next on is sharp. You can buy them at a Dollar Tree – 3 knifes for $1. They are light and I don’t care if I drop or lose one.

Carpenter’s pencil and/or Sharpie permanent marker. You can buy these at Home Depot or Lowe’s

Sheet Metal Snips – I prefer the 3″ snips (with yellow handles) from Sears – they last the longest, cut easily while staying sharp, cost only $16.99 and (very important for me) have sharp, pointy tips that make the cut very clean, without ripping the metal.

Tape measure. There are many and many people have their own preference. For me, I find the best tape measure is the one from Lowe’s, that costs $9.99. It’s green and has a black release button. I like it so much because when you pull out the tape, does not retract back, but stays until you press the release button. All other tape measures work in the opposite manner, which I find VERY annoying.

(Video) How Do You Start the First Panel of a Standing Seam Metal Roof? | NO SCRIPT with LukeWilson

A tool belt.

Again, just as with tape measures and many other tools, there are so many choices, but a good belt can make your roof installation as pleasureful as one can be, while a so-so tool belt will make your life hell and you will probably hate any kind of construction work for the rest of your life :).

My personal preference is a $45 plus tool belt from Home Depot. It is made of blue heavy duty synthetic cloth. It has a metal ring (hammer / snips holder) on each side, large pockets, a special place to put a bulky tape measure, and is otherwise rate small, compared to other full size tool belts.

It is also light and somewhat comfortable to wear on the roof. You can also take it apart – i.e. remove one of the pockets which will make the tool belt only “half the size”. The Velcro belt also makes it easy to put on.

Sheet metal hand seamer / folder. This tool is invaluable for any metal roofing work. In fact, when I just started installing metal roofs, hand seamer, along with the above tools where the only tools I had and needed to install a metal roof.

Everything else is just for convenience / speed. With the hand seamer / folder, you can make such complex flashing pieces as chimney collar, sidewall, etc. You will find it very useful and essential to the installation of a metal roof.

The above-mentioned tools are the bare essentials you’ll need to install any metal roof, whether metal shingles or standing seam.

Power tools:

Drill/Driver: Aside from these, you will need a cordless drill. I recommend an impact driver with Lithium-Ion batteries, and all my power tools are made by Hitachi.

I used to work with Craftsman and still own them, but they are heavy, loose power fast, and break, while Hitachi ones are light, strong, have log battery life and do NOT break!

Wood cutting: For minor wood repairs, a cordless Sawzall such as the one by Hitachi will be more than adequate. Actually, I rarely bring my corded tools to a job site anymore.


To properly install a metal roof, you will need a properly attached underlayment and properly flashed and sealed roof penetrations. After trying out many products, I have my favorites that I now exclusively use on every job:

Underlayment: We use GAF DeckArmor breathable underlayment on every one of our roofs. Why? Because it is the best we found at reasonable price (there is a similar product, but it costs 4 times more and is not any better in actual performance).

DeckArmor is durable, slip resistant, watertight, light-weight and comes in 4’6″ wide rolls which makes installation much faster, compared to 3″ rolls.

DeckArmor prevents most moisture problems associated with the synthetic underlayments, where the moisture is trapped between underlayment and roof deck, and makes the wood rot, causes mold, mildew and problems for contractors using them.

Deck Armor works like a human skin, by letting the water vapor molecules pass through, while keeping the water out. This way, any moisture from the inside escapes and runs down, between the underlayment and the actual roofing material, instead of being trapped inside.

You can easily walk on the underlayment, after securely attaching it to the roof deck, and you can leave it exposed up-to 6 months and not worry about leaks.

Nails: We use 1 1/2″ plastic cap nails to attach the underlayment to the roof deck. They are rust-proof, lightweight and will not damage the underlayment, unlike regular roofing nails. You can buy a large bucket of these nails at Home Depot or Lowe’s, but I recommend not to get 1-inch nails, which the above-mentioned stores usually stock. Get the longer ones, and it will be much easier for you to work with them.

Sealant / Caulking: Each roofer has his/her own preference when it comes to sealants, and my love goes to Solar Seal 900. I found it to be the best caulking that is water-tight, cures fast, has very strong adhesion, is rather inexpensive and comes in a variety of colors.

3. Standing Seam Metal Roof Installation Process

Step 1 – Installing the drip edge

Installation of the drip edge is usually a rather simple process, but for a novice roofer it can be a challenge. I’ll take a step back to the first part of this guide – when prepping your deck, make sure that the old drip edge is completely removed, and all rotten wood (boards or plywood sheeting) is replaced.

There are several opinions as to whether install drip edge under or over the underlayment. In theory if you install drip edge over the underlayment, then run-off rainwater may get underneath it. In reality, metal drip edge gets installed so tightly, that water just rolls over it. Therefore, I always install underlayment first, and then go over with the drip edge.

Advantages of installing drip edge after the roofing underlayment has been installed, are as follows: You do not waste any precious time during the installation of the drip edge; when and if your roof is open and it rains, you may not have enough time to cover it, that’s where having water and vapor barrier in place really comes handy. Second reason is the safety.

When I install underlayment, first I can trim the edges as I please, in case that a hang off portion of the roof is too lengthy. If your drip edge is already in place, and underlayment hangs off it, trimming it may be rather dangerous, while sitting on the edge of the roof.

Lastly – it really does not make much difference in terms of performance. A properly installed metal roof will keep the water out, and the only water on the underlayment will be condensation.

If rainwater does get onto the underlayment after a metal roof has been installed, then you have bigger problems to worry about! 😉

Install your drip edge using either screws or nails about 8-12″ On center (O.C.) in a staggered pattern for optimal rigidity. Overlap individual sections by at least 2″ and don’t forget to open up the lip of the overlapping section for a better fit. Install the drip edge along all eaves (horizontal ends of the roof).

If you have a hip roof, trim your drip edge so it overlaps the batting section.

Note: Usually you will receive a drip edge with 1 1/8″ face. You can optionally order 2 1/8″ face or any other size as well as vented drip edge in case you want to do the soffit / ridge ventilation, and you don’t have any soffits.

Depending on your metal roofing supplier, you can order pretty much any type of a trim detail custom made to your specifications. Unless you specify, you will usually get the standard trim that your supplier has.

I once got a 2″ face drip edge while I was expecting a 1″ and 2 inches did not work, so I had to exchange them. Think about such things ahead of time, and you won’t be wasting your time and money – always specify what you want to get. Most fabricators / suppliers will accept your drawings, even hand-drawn on, a piece of paper.

Step 2 – Gable / Rake trim:

With standing seam metal, there are at least two ways to trim the gables of your roof with many variations; using a special gable trim or a regular drip edge. I prefer using a special trim as it is easier and safer to install.

Installing your gable trim may have to be done either in the beginning or at the end of the roof installation. This will depend on how you plan to layout your metal panels. If you start with a full or partial panel at the gable, then you can put up the gable trim as soon as your first (and last) panel is installed.

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You will need to bend up 1-1 1/4″ lip on the outside edge of your panel. This will serve as a hook for the gable trim. Optionally, you can cut out the outside part of a double lock on the panel itself if you are using a full panel.

If you will be bending the lip, you can either use the hand seamer / folder or a special roller (which costs about $500, and you may not want to invest into it if you are only doing a single job).

If you use the hand seamer / folder, your panel bend will not be perfectly straight, but do not worry about it as the gable trim will hide any imperfections. This will be a very tedious process, especially on a longer panel.

If this will be your last panel, measure the distance between the edge of the roof and the edge of the last full panel – this will be the pan width of your last panel. Add at least an inch to this width for your fake lock.

Make sure that you measure both top and bottom of the panel, as this width tends to be slightly off due to framing being out of square and panel creeping. You don’t want your panel to bump out by an inch or two!

Once you have prepared your first and / or last panel and you’ve created the fake lock to hook your gable trim into, you can then line the panel up so it is flash with the rake board.

If this is your last panel, and you measured everything right, the panel will be flash with the rake board or you may have it bumping in or out by 1/8 – 1/4″ – this is normal and will not be noticeable.

Hook your gable trim into the fake lock, pull it down with your fingers and drive in the color matching hex screws with rubber gaskets, approximately 12″ on center to secure it.

In some situations, mostly for aesthetic reasons, I measured 2″ from each end and measured the remaining distance for equal spacing of screws (which usually came out to about 10″ oc).

In some situations, you will be required, or may choose to use a drip edge as gable trim. In that case, instead of bending up 1 inch of fake lock, bend down about 7/8″ lock to a 90-degree angle. Hook that side lock to the drip edge and fold in down with your fingers. Use hand seamer to tightly crimp the lock.

All other trim, besides the drip edge and on some occasions the gable trim, will be installed as you get to it with your panels.

Step 3 – Installing your first panel.

Whether you are using gable trim or drip edge for your rakes, the first panel will be the most important, because it will determine if your roof is squared, if any penetrations line up in the center of a metal pan or on a rib / lock.

You definitely want to avoid having any penetrations lining up with the lock, because it would be quite challenging and problematic for a first-time installer to flash it properly. — This should be solved ahead of time by making sure that your first panel has an appropriate width, so that you end up with a panel layout where you have all the penetrations through the center of a panel.

Assuming you have the correct width of the first panel, and that all the drip edges are installed, you will have to create the hook-lock at the bottom of each panel. This hook / lock should be 7/8 of an inch wide and folded down (see photo below).

Also notice the little “ear” sticking off on the side of the double lock. You will need to make this to wrap it around and crimp once the panel is installed.

Hook the first panel into the drip edge, align it flush with the rake board and install 1 screw through the pan, all the way at the top of the panel (about 1 inch from the upper edge of the panel). This screw will hot it in place while you are installing clips.

Space your clips 10-12″ OC, and using special flat-head screws, attach the panel to the roof deck. To avoid dents in the panel, install screws into outside hole of the clips.

If you are located in high wind area, you may want to put two screws into each clip, but I would actually increase the number of clips to 6-8″ on center instead of using two screws.

Never put two screws if you have boards instead of plywood. Two screws will split the board, which will cause the panel attachment not to be secure.

Once the first panel is installed, snap on the next panel. I found that the easiest way to do this is to hook the loose panel into the drip edge and insert the tip of a single snap lock into the double snap lock, then push the panel all the way up, and only then start putting the lock together. See the video bellow:

Use a rubber mallet or the rubber handle of your hammer to snap the seams of the roof panels. Using your palms will begin to hurt after just a couple of panels. Make sure that whatever you use is soft as to not dent the metal panels.

Repeat the process until all panels are installed. Measure and install your last panel as described above. Repeat the process on the other side of the house.

Step 3.1 – flashing a vent (stink) pipe.

If you have a vent pipe (most likely you do), you should have ordered an appropriately sized pipe boot with a metal/rubber flexible adjustable bottom, designed for corrugated sheet and standing seam metal roofs.

I hope you aligned your panels so that the stink pipe lands between the ribs. As you approach the stink pipe in your installation of the panels, getting as close as possible with the last full panel that does not require cutting, finish installing it, and then measure the distance from the bottom to the center of the pipe, and from the side where the last panel is.

Locate the spot where you will be cutting in a hole in the panel for the pipe, and make sure to cut the hole such that it would be 1/2 – 3/4″ wider than the pipe.

As you can see in the picture above, we actually had the rib sitting 1″ away from the pipe. We could not avoid this and had to deal with it, but for you, I strongly recommend spending 5 extra minutes measuring and not doing it the hard way.

Once you cut your hole in the panel, put it up, install the clips, and now you should be ready to install the pipe flashing. Put your pipe flashing on, align it with the panel, use pencil to mark the location of the flashing and pull it off.

(Video) Metal Roofing Installation - Standing Seam Metal Roofing

Apply a thick bead of Solar Seal 900 or an equal exterior grade sealant / caulking within the perimeter of the flashing. Then, set the flashing back in place so that its base is completely sealed by the caulking. Finally, fasten the flashing down with the hex head rubber gasket screws, spacing them about 1.5-2″ apart.

Once again, in order to avoid the situations where roof penetration lands in the center of the lock, measure carefully beforehand!

Step 4 – Installing Z-bars and ridge caps

If you are using the ridge/soffit vent systems, make sure you are not installing it on a low slope roof, as water may get inside through the perforated z-closure.

Cut your z-bar to the width of one panel. Make sure it fits tightly, but not too tight as to scratch the locks of the panel. Usually go about a 1/4 less than nominal width of the panel. This gives you enough room for a snap lock of the next panel to fit in, and it will help you to end up with the minimum gaps between the edges of.

Cut a small piece of ridge cap (about 2″ wide), align in so that it is in the center of the ridge, laying perpendicular with the locks. Mark the outer edges on the top of each rib. You will align your z-bars and the ridge cap to these marks.

Use the first piece as a template and cut enough z-bars to accommodate every panel on your roof (both sides). Using double-sided peel-n-stick foam or some type of exterior grade caulking such as Butyl, Urethane, or similar sealant, caulk the connection area between the panel and the z-bar.

Attach the z-bar with 3 screws, and caulk the side gaps so that any wind-driven water would not be able to get in. As for the caulking type of choice, we always use a clear (or color matching) Solar Seal 900. It works awesome!

Once all your z-bars are up and sealed, take a section of the ridge cap, and cut a 2-inch line down the center bend, on the end of the cap. At the same end, cut off 2 inches of the lock and bend down the two flaps. This will be your end-piece.

Align the flaps you’ve just created with the gable trim and hook in one side of the ridge cap into the z-bar. If your z-bar is spaced too widely or narrowly, you can bend it in or out so that it fits your ridge cap.

Hook the second (unclosed) lock into the opposite z-bars all along the length of the cap. Once it is completely clipped in, use your hands to close the opened lock (lip) on one side of the cap, and then using the hand seamer crimp both sides of the cap.

Take the next section of the ridge cap, and cut of about 3″ of locks at one end of the cap. Do not cut along the center.

Apply two lines of caulking where the connection between two pieces will be made and install the second piece the same way you did with the first, using the end where you cut off 3 inches of lock, to overlap the 1st piece. Do not use any screws. The connection should be watertight, and it will not leak.

Once all your ridge cap is in place, your roof is pretty much complete. If you have the stack or bathroom vent pipes, I will show you how to flash them the right way in the next post.

In the meantime, if you live in the snow country, you may want to have some snowguards installed. Visit Berger, to find the style of snowguards you like, and locate the supplier to buy it from.

Standing Seam Metal Roofing Installation - DIY Step by Step Guide! (31)New Shingle Roof

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Standing Seam Metal Roofing Installation - DIY Step by Step Guide! (32)New Metal Roof

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Hope you enjoyed reading this post, and that you found the information helpful. As a word of precaution, always remember to safety-in using a proper fall arrest equipment and anchoring methods. Never ever work alone.

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(Video) Cabin in the Woods Part 13: Installing Standing Seam Metal Roof



How do you install a standing seam metal roof? ›

How to Install Snaplock Standing Seam Metal Roofing Panels on a ...

What are the steps to installing a metal roof? ›

Step-by-Step Metal Roofing Installation
  1. Step 1: Take Measurements and Buy Metal Roofing Materials. ...
  2. Step 2: Remove the Old Materials and Make Structural Repairs. ...
  3. Step 3: Install Underlayment. ...
  4. Step 4: Install Drip Edges and Flashing. ...
  5. Step 5: Install Corrugated Metal Roofing Panels. ...
  6. Step 6: Install Closure Strips and Ridge Caps.
Dec 28, 2021

Can you overlap standing seam roofing? ›

Standing seam roofs are easy to spot because of their distinct raised vertical seams. Each panel should run continuously from the eave at the base of the roof up to the ridge. Properly installed panels should not overlap horizontally as this would compromise watertightness.

How far apart are the seams on a standing seam metal roof? ›

A standing seam metal roof system is a series of metal panels that are locked together at the seams or seamed mechanically. The ribs (standing seams) are usually between 12 and 24 inches apart, depending on the length of the metal panel and aesthetics of the structure.

Do you need an air gap under metal roofing? ›

Metal roof coatings with solar reflectance can help building owners save substantially in annual cooling costs. Research has confirmed that creating an air space under a metal roofing system will increase energy savings during both summer and winter months.

What goes under a standing seam roof? ›

Underlayment is usually a felt (15 lb, 30 lb, or synthetic) material used over your decking to provide additional protection. That makes it a crucial component to your metal roof. For your standing seam metal roof, your underlayment will be a self-adhering, high heat ice and water shield.

What do you put down before a metal roof? ›

Felt Underlayment (Asphalt Felt or Tar Paper)

But no matter what you call it, felt underlayment is the most common underlayment material used for steeper-sloped metal roofs.

When putting on a metal roof where do you put the screws? ›

Pro-Rib Screw Installation - YouTube

How far apart should screws be on metal roof? ›

Lap screws are spaced 12” to 18” on center. The panel screws are spaced out so that every third corrugation has a screw including both sides of the panel sidelap.

How far should a metal roof hang over the edge? ›

A typical metal roof overhang may be 2 to 4 inches, or even less. Some slight overhang is recommended, in conjunction with a drip edge flashing, to prevent water from getting under the roofing and onto underlying wood.

How far should a metal roof overhang the edge? ›

3: The panels at the eave side of the roof should overhang into the gutters 1 to 1-1/2 inches. If installing metal on a non gutter application you can overhang the panel up to 3 inches.

What is the minimum slope for a standing seam metal roof? ›

The minimum slope for standing seam of roof systems shall be one-quarter unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope).

What is the minimum slope for a standing seam metal roof? ›

The minimum slope for standing seam of roof systems shall be one-quarter unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope).

Do you have to put plywood under metal roof? ›

Although it may seem counterintuitive, metal roofing can be attached directly to your building's roofing structure without the need and expense of plywood sheeting.

What is the average cost of a standing seam metal roof? ›

The average cost to install a standing seam metal roof is anywhere between $24,000 to $42,000 depending on the slope, pitch, and size of your roof. You can expect to pay $8 to $14 per square foot, or $800 to $1,400 per square, installed on a standard sized single story home.

What is the life expectancy of a standing seam metal roof? ›

As long as it's properly installed and your attic is adequately ventilated, there's no reason you shouldn't get at least 30 years out of your new standing seam metal roof. Under the ideal conditions, your new standing seam metal roof could live for 50 years.

Are you about to get a new standing seam metal roof? If so, you need to know how a standing seam metal roof is installed. Here, you’ll learn, the materials that make up your metal roof, how your standing seam metal roof is installed, and what to know about the metal roof installation process.

So, how is a standing seam metal roof installed?. A standing seam metal roof system is a series of metal panels that are locked together at the seams or seamed mechanically.. But your standing seam metal roof system is made up of more than just the metal panels you see.. Now that you know what materials make up your new metal roof, you’re ready to learn how these materials come together to form a standing seam metal roof.. After your old roof is torn off, the starter lock strips are ready to be installed.. Your lock strips will be made out of the same color and gauge as your metal panels.. The ice and water shield must be installed over the top of the lock strip at the eaves.. It’s absolutely crucial that the underlayment is installed over the lock strip on your standing seam metal roof.. The ribs (standing seams) you see on the metal panels are usually 12 to 24 inches apart depending on how long the panel is.. Once the first metal panel is locked to the lock strips, the rest of the metal panels are attached to each other with clips at the ribs.. After your panels are installed, a piece of metal flashing needs to be installed to fill in the spots between the ribs of your metal panels and the ridge of your roof.. Once the Z bars are installed, your standing seam metal roof will be ready to lock in into the ridge capping or transition metal.. Once your ridge capping or transition metal is installed, your metal panels will be completely locked in, and you’ll have your new standing seam metal roof.. Now you know the process to install your new standing seam metal roof.

Metal roofs have been around for a while, but they are becoming more and more popular in recent years—for good reason. They can last up to 50+ years, provide excellent insulation against the elements, and give your home a beautiful look all at once. If you're thinking of installing a DIY metal roof on your property,

You’ll measure from the roof’s ridge down to the eaves.. You’ll also want to ensure you use the proper roofing sealant and flashing to keep out water and ice.. For example, if you have a professional roofing crew install the metal roofing, then you won’t have to worry about longer installation time.. There are a few types of metal roofing available on the market today.. Metal roofing shingles today can nearly imitate asphalt or slate shingles, but with the benefits of metal.

This article will give you step-by-step instructions on how to install a standing seam metal roof. Most DIY’ers and homeowners may not think of installing a […]

Standing seam metal roofing panels are available to purchase at your local roofing supply store.. Begin preparing your roof deck after you have ordered and received the tools and supplies for your new metal roof.. Working your way up the roof to the ridge, continue the installation of the underlayment, overlapping each layer by six inches.. At this time, you will install the starter trim, which is the metal flashing that goes over you’re the edge of the eaves.. You can start installing the metal roofing panels after you have installed all the trim and flashing.. Then, use special screws at the top to secure the metal roofing panel.. The metal clips should have two holes–one that is close to the metal roofing panel and one that is further away.. You will cut the z-bar to the same length as the panel it will be fitted to.. Cut the z-bar about a ¼ inch smaller than the panel width so there is enough room for the next panel’s snap lock to fit inside.. Line up these flaps with the gable trim, hooking in one side of the ridge cap into the z-bar.

Are you looking to learn how to install metal roofing on your home? Get started with this thorough step-by-step guide - Click Here!

There are many reasons homeowners switch to metal roofs vs. standard asphalt shingles or other roofing materials.. Metal roofs are often rated to last up to 50 years and longer, depending on the type of metal used, thanks to their high resistance to fire, hail, windstorms, and other natural disasters that can damage your roof.. For homeowners looking for a roof that they can “set and forget,” metal roofs offer some of the lowest maintenance requirements of all roofing materials.. Depending on the type of metal roofing you choose, there can be significant differences in price, installation, and maintenance.. The most common type of metal roof is galvanized steel which is a lightweight, affordable option for homeowners who want to install their own roof.. Cladding any type of roof with copper will make it more durable because this material lasts longer than other options available while also adding an attractive beauty to your structure.. A standing seam metal panel is a seamless design that offers excellent durability and lots of insulation for your home and is installed by welding horizontal panels together.. 2) Measure the Length of Your Roof Once you know how many panels are needed for installation, measure the length of your roof and order that amount in panels or shingles.. The pitch you want will depend on the type of metal roofing you buy because a steeper pitch means more material is needed for installation.. After you’ve measured your roof, the next step is to purchase all the materials and tools you’ll need for installation.. Again, refer to our list of tools and materials above, but now you will know more accurately how many materials you’ll need to purchase based on your roof’s measurements.. Depending on how it was installed, this might be as simple as removing screws or nails and pulling up shingles.. This will provide a solid foundation for attaching the metal panels or shingles onto and securing them by using nails, screws, or staples (depending on what type of material you’re installing).. Now you can start installing the metal panels or shingles.. To do this, first attach galvanized steel frame strips to your roof’s edge for stability and then use nails, screws, or staples (depending on what type) to secure them in place before moving onto the next row of material.

With its sleek, modern look, metal panel roofing was our first choice for the Getaway. It has no visible seams and is maintenance free — even a light rain will wash leaves and sticks off the roof. Even better, it won’t grow moss and algae in the shade of the Wisconsin woods. A metal roof will reduce cooling costs by reflecting heat and last 50 to 70 years. Armed with a basic understanding of the anatomy of a metal roof, along with a few tips, you can install one yourself in just a few days. Pro tip: It’s all about the layers. When it rains, a roof sheds water from one layer to the next until it runs off the roof. Build roof layers the right way and your home will stay dry inside for its entire life.

Metal Roofing Panels Ice and Water Shield Roofing Nails Eave Trim Gable Trim Ridge Cap Sidewall Flashing Self Tapping Roofing Screws Metal Roofing Sealant Inside Foam Closure Strips Outside Foam Closure Strips Butyl Tape Roofing Vent Boots. I had our metal roofing panels cut to fit the length of our roof.. Since the Getaway roof is larger, I measured to 21 feet, 28 feet and 35 feet (seven times three, four and five) to make my square reference line.. Adjust the panel so any measurement from it to the reference line is the same at the top and bottom.. After all the panels are fastened, it’s time to attach the gable trim.. This cleans up the edge of the panel and keeps rain and snow from getting under the roof panels and siding.. After you bend the end of the trim to meet the corner at the eave, apply butyl tape on the underside of the trim where it lands on the flat part of the roof panels.

Standing seam metal roof is one of the most popular metal roofing types used both in residential and commercial use due to its durability. They also only require low maintenance but could last over 30 years, two times longer than other roofing types, which makes them an ideal roofing choice. If you plan on installing […]

The standing seam metal roof is made of seven parts, including the metal panels, clips or fasteners, roof decking, underlayment, starter lock strip, z bar, and ridge capping.. Before the installation, ensure you have all the necessary materials and tools.. Before installing the standing seam metal roof, make sure to tear off the old roofing materials or old roofing shingles to create a clean deck.. Install the Standing Seam Metal Roof Panels. Before installing, mark the end of the panel with one inch and cut the base of each rib to latch the panels to the attached lock strips at the eaves.. Once the rib of the panel is cut off, hook the panel onto the lock strip attached to the rakes.. Make sure that each metal panel is attached to each other with clips or fasteners at the ribs.. After installing the Z bars, lock the metal panels into the ridge capping.

Standing seams are an excellent addition to your metal roofing. Find out how to install standing seams for your metal roofing today by reading this article.

A lot goes into a standing seam metal roof installation.. But before we go through the steps of metal roof installation, it’s crucial to understand the distinctive features of standing seam metal roofs.. That’s because many people tend to confuse standing seam metal roofing with other metal roof designs.. Standing seam metal roof panels consist of raised seams (or standings) that act as barriers to prevent rainwater infiltration.. You can also install roof fasteners on the seams during installation.. Now that you know what standing seam metal roofs are, it’s essential to understand the installation basics.. First, you must prepare the roof deck properly before installing the metal roof seams.. Flashing Gutters and drip edges Ladder or scaffolding Metal sheet panels Metal roofing nails or fasteners Ridge caps Safety harness Underlayment. Before buying the metal roof panels for your roof, you must take the roof measurements to ensure that they fit your roof.. Also, if your roof is steep, you’ll need more metal roof panels.. Install a new frame on the roof, then follow it with drip edges to cover all the seams between the roofing panels.. Right now, your roof is ready for the standing seam metal roof panels.. After cutting the standing seam of the first roof panel and locking it to the lock strips, attach the other metal panels using clips (fasteners) at the ribs.. Once you install the ridge caps, the metal panels will get locked in entirely, and you’ll have a new standing seam metal roof.. Thankfully, this standing seam metal roof installation guide has covered all the steps to help you handle the project by yourself.

Are you about to get a new standing seam metal roof? If so, you need to know how a standing seam metal roof is installed. Here, you’ll learn, the materials that make up your metal roof, how your standing seam metal roof is installed, and what to know about the metal roof installation process.

So, how is a standing seam metal roof installed?. Now that you know what materials make up your new metal roof, you’re ready to learn how these materials come together to form a standing seam metal roof.. The ribs (standing seams) you see on the metal panels are usually 12 to 24 inches apart depending on how long the panel is.. Once the first metal panel is locked to the lock strips, the rest of the metal panels are attached to each other with clips at the ribs.. Once the Z bars are installed, your standing seam metal roof will be ready to lock in into the ridge capping or transition metal.. Once your ridge capping or transition metal is installed, your metal panels will be completely locked in, and you’ll have your new standing seam metal roof.. Now you know the process to install your new standing seam metal roof.

Looking to use standing seam metal roofing on a project? We go over the different standing seam panel systems as well as the different types of stiffening ribs and striations and why they are important to use.

At Western States Metal Roofing, we manufacture metal panels for roofing and siding in several different styles including standing seam .. There are different types of standing seam roofs.. Mechanically seamed panels are the most weathertight standing seam panel.. Standing Seam Snap Lock panel. We recommend a minimum roof slope of 3:12 or greater when installing nail strip systems.. Clip relief is a stiffening rib that is 1” from both sides of the panel.. It also slightly helps with oil canning when you want a flat panel but do not want standard stiffening ribs or striations.. If you have a client that is against the idea of stiffening ribs solely because they want the flat panel look of standing seam, remind them that oil canning on standing seam roofs without stiffening ribs is usually more noticeable.. Striations On Standing Seam. There are still other panel choices to make that greatly affect the appearance and performance of the roof, including:

Handsome, durable, and romantic in the rain, tin roofs can be easily installed with a few simple tools.

An ingenious system of metal sheets crimped together in seams that jut an inch or more above the surface, standing seam roofs are attractive and highly durable as the primary roof and one of the few options for low-pitched, secondary roofs over porches and bay windows.. On simple houses and secondary roofs, steel-based standing seam roofing is often installed over spaced decking or skip sheathing—boards laid with gaps of 1½” or so—but all three commonly used materials work equally well over closed-board or plywood decking.. In any event, before starting, you should install metal edging around the perimeter of the roof to support the ½” to 1″ overhang of the sheet metal to discourage water from running back under the edge.. If you will be making seams along ridges where two roofs meet, remember to offset the pan spacing so that the seams in one roof meet the center of the pans in the other roof.. To make pans, measure from 4″ above the roof ridge (to allocate metal for a seam) and 1″ beyond the roof edge, then cut your metal to this dimension with metal shears or tin snips.. (On a simple gable roof, the outboard first and last pans will have one edge—the one that runs along the roof rake—bent down 1″ so it can be crimped to the drip edge or locking strip.). Once your end pan is secured, you need to bend the edges around the locking strip or drip edge at the roof perimeter.. Then move the iron to the opposite side of the seam, place it against the metal, and hammer the seam closed into a tight crimp, making sure that the longer metal edge completely covers the shorter edge and that all the clips are well covered and crimped too.

Looking to learn about a manufacturer's standing seam metal roof installation details? See inferior installation detail examples, how to avoid them, and...

Whether you’re a property owner, roofing contractor, or installer: The metal roof should be installed according to the manufacturer’s recommended installation details.. If you run into a situation as a property owner or installer where you don’t understand the details, the measurements are off, or the document is unorganized, it’s best to question if you should use them.. #4: As a property owner, it’s recommended that you go over the installation details with your contractor.. For reference, SMI’s details pins all panels at the top to allow the expansion to take place at the eave.. Most of the time, the top of the panel is not fastened off, which could allow the panel to slide down the roof.. These are often NOT recommended by the manufacturer for use on a metal roof system .

A contractor with experience installing metal roofing can ensure that your buildings new roof is installed correctly and efficiently.

With a lifespan of 40+ years, energy efficiency, and low maintenance costs, it's tough to beat the value that metal roofing provides, especially when you consider that long-term metal roofing costs less than shingles.. One of the most important factors with your new metal roof is finding a quality contractor with experience installing metal roofing.. Once you have hired your roofing contractor , they can answer questions specific to your metal roof project.. The recover/overlay option involves installing the new roof on top of the existing roof.. As the name implies, this approach involves removing all roofing materials to the original plywood deck and installing new metal panels over the decking.. If the number of shingle layers exceeds code requirements, it will be necessary to remove the shingle roof before installation of the new metal roofing.. Typically, this can be plywood, planking, or OSB (Oriented Strand Board) attached to the top of the roof framing members to create the roof surface for the underlayment and metal panel attachment.. Depending on the type of metal panel you select, your roofing contractor will use clips and/or fasteners to attach the roofing panels to the decking.. Trim and flashing refers to the components that are installed at the intersections and terminations of the metal roofing system to seal the roof and prevent water from entering the roofing system and building envelope.. Check out this Meridian installation video to see many of the components used when installing a metal roof.. Depending on your roof, the installers will need clear access on all sides of the building to position and install the panels and trim.. Metal roof panels and trim have sharp edges, so only the installers should handle them.. You can learn more by visiting our metal roof resources page if you still have questions about a metal roof installation.

Want to learn more about standing seam metal roof costs and what it would cost to install on your home? Click here to learn more.

The average cost of a metal roof Why metal roofs are more expensive than other roofing materials What preparation is necessary for a metal roofing installation How to DIY a standing seam metal roof or fastener metal roof The tools you need to approach a metal roofing installation project What types of materials you'll need to install a metal roof How to save some cash on your metal roofing installation. The average cost of a standing seam metal roof — including installation — is anywhere from $15,000 to $25,000.. Installing an asphalt roof will run you around $1.50 to $4 per square foot.. Check out my project guide on asphalt shingle repairs if you're looking to replace your asphalt with metal.. To prepare for a metal roofing installation, you'll need the following:. For the following guides below, I've assumed that you have measured your roof, repaired any decking damage, and laid down your underlay.. Before you lay a single panel down, you need to square your roof.. I recommend cutting the eaves first, putting them in place, and then measuring the metal roof panels flush to the eave.. The last step is to install your panel using your fasteners.. Always make sure that your panels are flush to the eave before you start drilling.. I will say this: don't install your fasteners too tightly.. You left that extra inch of space, but if you install too many tight fasteners, your metal panels will fan, which can make the entire process a pain.. Instead of having your panel jut out an inch past the eave — like you would on an exposed fastener roof — offset cleats keep your roof flush by fastening the panel directly into the cleat.. Before you start measuring, buckling up your harness, or busting out your handy tape measure, you need a few must-have materials.

Metal roofing is a unique trend in roofing and this guide will walk you through the steps, including how to install metal roofing over shingles.

Whether you are looking to replace your existing roof or add a roof to a new building, metal roofing can be an attractive alternative to asphalt shingles.. While most metal roofing styles can be installed as an advanced DIY project, metal roofing installation is complicated and can vary slightly based on the brand of panels or shingles that you select.. This guide will teach you about the types of metal roofing and give you step-by-step instructions on metal roofing installation for a basic corrugated through-fastened metal roof.. While this overview can give you a good idea of how to install a metal roof, the metal roofing installation process can be very complex and hazardous.. Before we get into the steps on how to install metal roofing it’s important to understand what types of metal roofs exist.


1. How To Install A Standing Seam Metal Roof
(Digital Roofing Innovations)
2. Standing Seam Metal Roofing Installation - Rake Trim [Step By Step Installation Instructions]
(Metal Roofing Learning Channel®)
3. How To Install Standing Seam Metal Roofing: Head Wall And Side Wall Flashing Installation
(Metal Roofing Learning Channel®)
4. Agway Metals AR Roofing Installation Guide
(Agway Metals)
5. How to install a snaplock standing seam metal roof? | Steel Canada Roofing and Siding Limited
(Steel Canada Roofing and Siding Limited)
6. How to Install Standing Seam Metal Roofing

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